Bolgheri DOC: the begining of the Super Tuscans

Those who thought that the great wines based on Cabernets and Merlot were an exclusive prerogative of Bordeaux must have reconsidered it by now. In the area of Bolgheri, an enchanting territory on the Tuscany coast, these varieties have in fact met the perfect terroir to produce the Mediterranean expression of Cabernet and Merlot which is just as fascinating as the Atlantic expression offered in their original territories. A great history, which started only a few decades ago thanks to a peculiar intuition.



The begining of the Super Tuscans
The elders in this area used to say that you couldn't make great wines close to the sea. Today, it has been shown that vicinity to the sea is precisely what makes great wines. The highest-quality vineyards are all at the feet of the hills and in the plane between Bolgheri and the southern part of Castagneto.
It all started immediately after Wolrd War Two thanks to a brilliant intuition of the marquis Mario Incisa della Rocchetta who gave start, with his picks, to the production of those wines then renamed Super Tuscans.
Already in 1944 the Marquis planted approximately one hectare of Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc at Castiglioncello di Bolgheri, within the borders of the San Guido estate. Starting in the 1970s, Sassicaia became a true legend, one of the best Italian wines for aging, able to astonish you after a long stay in the bottle.
Sassicaia is today among the most famous wines in the world, but it is not the only one. Starting already in the 1980s, other producers, who are also well known today, joined the bet to prove that the entire territory, and not just one wine, is "great."

The Bolgheri grapes
The most important varieties in the area are those whose vocation was amply demonstrated by Sassicaia first, and other historical wine later, such as Ornellaia, Grattamacco, Macchiole, Guado al Tasso, and Satta.

This means Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, and Merlot.

The experimentation which has now been taking place for almost twenty years, has shown the great potential of other varieties such as Syrah and Petit Verdot. Sangiovese as well continues to have a hard core of supporters.
For white wines, Vermentino is currently the most planted. Sauvignon Blanc, after changing fortunes, is recovering a highly-qualitative dimension, and is often accompanied by Viognier.



Bolgheri Doc
The DOC certification for the red wine came only in 1994, and regulates Bolgheri Superiore and Bolgheri Sassicaia wines, as the first example of Italian cru.
It took many years to recognize that the brilliant insight of the Marquis Incisa had created a unique phenomenon in the history of Italian wine: that phenomenon which makes Bolgheri wines a full and grand expression of terroir, wines which are deeply linked to the soil and climate of their territory.
In the last ten years, the area covered by the DOC Bolgheri certification has expanded rapidly, going from 250 hectares at the end of the 90s, to 960 hectares today. There are currently 33 members of the Consortium, out of 45 companies which operate in the territory.

Bolgheri’s Wines
The Reds: for Bolgheri Doc the “terroir” is much more important than the grape variety used to produce the wine: this is the reason why the new Doc regulation speaks about “Bolgheri Rosso” and “Bolgheri Superiore” without mentioning the grape variety.
The main choice for the “Bolgheri Superiore” regards Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Merlot. They will have the possibility to be present up to 100%.
Other varieties like Syrah and Sangiovese can be present up to 50% and other red varieties like Petit Verdot up to 30%.
The “Bolgheri Rosso” must be aged for at least 10 months and it will be sold since september the first of the new year after the grape harvesting. For the “Bolgheri Superiore” the aging remains to be 24 months after the new year successive to the grape harvesting.

Generally, we are always dealing with red wines with intense, dark, ruby red, and often impenetrable colors, which demonstrate great aging potentials. The aromas are characterized by ripe berries, at times with balsamic notes of Mediterranean maquis, with well-integrated oak spices. The palate is struck by the round and smooth nature of the wine, the sweetness of the fruit which is always lively due to the freshness of the acid component, the layered and velvety tannic texture, and the long finish. The elegance and the powerful but slender structure, thanks to the acidity, are the most frequent positive characteristics, even though the Mediterranean climate always offers respectable alcohol contents.
Rosè: the rosè has a tradition which goes back to the 1970s, when the production of "Rosè di Bolgheri" by Antinori was famous. The most commonly used grapes are Sangiovese and Malvasia nera, but also Cabernet, Merlot and Syrah, which produce fresh, fruity and savory roses, that go perfectly with the many recipes of the cuisine along the sea coast.

Whites wines: Vermentino is the mainly used white grape variety in Bolgheri. Usually it is produced with 100% of Vermentino variety or blended with Sauvignon Blanc and Viogner. Fresh and fruity wines, whose grapes are fermented in stainless steel vats, represent the most common typology which can accompany several fish dishes. Beside these, there are some example of Vermentino and Viogner fermented in oak barriques. These wines present more complexity and they can be accompanied to more elaborated fish dishes or to white meat such as poultry dishes.

Bolgheri DOC Consortium
On December 14th 1995 the official wine-growers association for the protection of Bolgheri DOC Wines was founded.
The Consortium, whose operational offices are located right on the famous Cypress lane, brings together the three professional categories involved in the production process of Bolgheri DOC wines; the vine growers, wine producers, and bottlers. It is interesting noticing that most of the producers in the area do their own bottling, and thus complete the production cycle of growing the grapes, producing and bottling the wine, while there are no wine grower's cooperatives.
Among the Consortium's stated aims, research and development of vines and structures necessary for experimentation in the field and in the cellar, for the development and continuous improvement of the quality of the grapes and wines, is considered highly important.
Q&A with Marquise Nicolò Incisa della Rocchetta, President of Bolgheri Doc Consortium

-What do you see as the future for the Consortium, an increase in exports or domestic consumption?
I certainly think that export represents an important goal for the product development of Bolgheri, especially with regard to the recent wine-interest some countries with great potential such as China and India have. Meanwhile we must not lose sight of the necessary presence in the domestic market. Any product indeed, especially when it comes to wine, must always identify the style of the country where it is produced and therefore be appreciated in this area. Only then it will be able to conquer the foreign market.

- Regarding the exportation, do you feel more protected since the Doc, Docg, Igt are now in a common Dop/Igp register?
For us it is a new thing and so it is difficult to express an opinion. I believe that the validity of this renovation can be expressed when we know exactly who will be the entities engaged in the monitoring and inspections.

- Is the Bolgheri DOC confined by tradition or opened to innovation?
Certainly the tradition, which then represents the area's history and its vocation. But also with a watchful eye towards innovation and normal evolution of production techniques, styles of business and consumer needs.